Where is it?

Nice is situated in southern France on the Côte D’Azur and is very much the capital of the French Riviera.

Where should I be heading?

There is so much to do and take in in Nice and its surrounding towns that you need a good week or so to digest everything. Nice has a bit of everything though, from harbour, seafront to hidden roof-top castles and a wealth of shops and boulevards to stroll down. Beware – in 2007 they were still building the tramway system so a lot was dug up and boarded off. The guidebooks anticipated it would be completed by the end of 2006 – HA! – that’s one long sabbatical they’ve taken!

Entry requirements:

UK residents need a valid passport. For all other countries please check with the French embassy.

Health:

No jabs required. As always however I make it a rule to avoid tap water and buy bottled where possible.

Top 5 things to do:

1. Nice is undoubtedly an upper-class version of Brighton. With an elegant promenade and seafront, entitled “Promenade des Anglais” which stretches for three miles, it’s the perfect place for an afternoon saunter. If it’s shopping you prefer however, the Av Jean Médecin should satisfy your needs. Likened to London’s Oxford Street, it boasts an array of designer stores thrown in amongst a colour display of handbag outlets. It’s a vast city so make sure you have comfy shoes. Although you’ll be pleased to know there are lots of parks and street cafés where you can idle the day away.

2. Villefranche sur Mer – just a short bus-ride away is this quaint, quieter sea-side village.  The ride itself is picturesque but be sure to get to the bus station with good time before departure.  It’s an extremely popular route and can get very busy. Villefranche may attract the tourists but its many winding alleys provide adequate peace and quiet to reflect and breathe in the fresh salty air.  If you fancy lunch there, once again scout around early – mealtimes bring out the locals and visitors in abundance.

3. Les Jardins Exotique de Monaco – you can get to Monaco very easily by bus from central Nice.  Once again though it’s a very popular destination so prepare to stand on the bus.  On arriving in Monaco it can be a bit disorientating without a map but there is a shopping complex nearby where you can stop for a rest. The exotic gardens however are way up in the gods.  It’s possible to take a lift part of the way up there, but some of the way can only be reached on foot.  Be prepared – it’s quite an incline and in the extreme heat it’s not pleasant. Once you reach the park and have paid a modest entrance fee, it all becomes well worth the hike. Literally on top of the world, it’s hard to believe that anything so luscious and exotic grows up there. Impressive displays of cacti and alpine plants bejewel the rock formations, whilst the breathtaking views of Monaco below make it a veritable paradise. Be sure to have adequate sun protection with you though as there is very little shade.

4. Cimiez – away from the hustle and bustle of Nice city in the northern suburbs you will find a unique historical experience. This quiet hilly mostly residential area stands on what used to be a Roman settlement – Cemenelum. The ruins stand out from the road and include remains of an incredible amphitheatre and baths. Nearby you can also find the Musée de Matisse and a stunning Franciscan monastery with well-maintained gardens and equally stunning views.

5. Take an organised tour – sometimes it’s the only way to see somewhere if transport links are limited. At the tourist office you can pick up relevant leaflets for companies that offer these tours. We booked a full day trip in an 8-seater mini bus which took us to Cannes, Antibes, Grasse, Gourdon, Saint Paul de Vence and Tourettes sur Loup. Cannes and Antibes were more for those with more money than sense, but the real treats were the chocolate box mountain villages of Gourdon and Tourettes. Nestled in the Alpes Maritimes region, the labyrinth of pathways and narrowing lanes were a joy to explore and photograph. Also thrown into the day trip was an all inclusive tour of the famous Fragonard perfumery. It was an educating experience and will certainly make you appreciate every drop of your favourite fragrance.

Is it expensive?

On the whole not really an expensive area despite its attraction to the rich and famous. Transport such as buses are unbelievably cheap, and with good connections and service to put us Brits to shame it’s a pleasure to lay down the 1€ 35 per journey (prices as per 2007).  When it comes to dining, depending on the grade of restaurant you choose the prices can be up or down. Supermarkets are extremely cheap, however and make al-fresco dining affordable. There’s nothing like relaxing with a fresh baguette.

What are the toilets like?

France unfortunately doesn’t have a glittering reputation for the cleanliness or availability of their public conveniences. In-and-around Nice however it wasn’t too bad. Most restaurants had acceptable facilities and there are also many coin-operated ones situated around the centre.

What’s the food like?

On the whole it was very Italian, not surprising really as Nice was an Italian city up until the late 1800s. Expect pizzas and pastas on most menus really.  here was one establishment near the old town though that kindly knocked us up a fabulous croque monsieur, salad and black tea. We’d had an exhausting day and must have looked weary, so he took pity on us after we’d missed the lunch slot! We salute you, sir!

What to wear:

Summers there are generally warm and humid so pack plenty of t-shirts and loose-fitting garments. Also be sure to carry sun-block and shades with you at all times.

Best time to visit:

Any time is popular with tourists, but early summer is best when it’s not too hot. Throughout the year there are particular events and festivals, so check with a guide book or tour operator.

Don’t miss: 

One of Nice’s prize attractions is in fact a Russian style cathedral – Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas. With a growing Russian population, you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’d been transported to St Petersburg. The only give-away that you are in the Mediterranean are the surrounding palm trees. Easily accessible by bus, it’s definitely a spectacle to add to your list.

Most overrated thing:

Cannes is certainly not somewhere that I’d rush back to in a hurry. With a rather pretentious, expensive air about it and no obvious interesting architectural features, take me back to the mountains any day. The beachfront was ridiculously crowded too, almost to the point of finding someone’s arse in your sandwich! Urgh, no thanks!

(5/5)

Photos: Mojo